Tikal and Yaxhá, the Mayan Giants of Guatemala

One of my biggest childhood dreams: discovering ancient temples hidden in the jungle. Of course, I've seen many temples before (like in Peru or Cambodia), but nothing compares to this adventure...

A meeting I had been looking forward to since the beginning of our sabbatical year: Tikal!

Truly a treasure hidden in the jungle, the site of Tikal is one of the most important archaeological complexes of the Mayan civilization and the most visited in Guatemala.

The downtown area covered 16 km²

The city was home to over 400,000 inhabitants

The empire of Tikal:

extended into 2 present-day countries: Guatemala and Honduras

and had trade agreements with 2 other present-day countries: Mexico and Belize.

Tikal means in the Mayan language itza >, because each place is built according to techniques that care for acoustics, allowing the leader to be heard by all from the top of the pyramids.

Another fun acoustic effect we found in Mexico at Chichén Itzá, the sound reflecting off the walls of the pyramids produces a sound reminiscent of the cry of the quetzal, the sacred bird of the Mayans (and the national bird of Guatemala)!

Tikal is one of the few UNESCO sites that has been designated as both a natural and cultural heritage site. And that well reflects the first impressions that struck me when discovering this site. I felt so small, overwhelmed by the density of the tropical forest and crushed by the size of the imposing pyramids.

In Tikal, nature has reclaimed its rights: this city has been completely covered by vegetation.

A good portion of the site, even in the central area, is still buried under vegetation, patiently waiting to be revealed.

And those that have been reclaimed by nature do not come out unscathed. Made of limestone, a material that erodes significantly over time, these constructions have lost the majority of their carvings and sculptures.

Traces of life at Tikal date back to 1000 BC, with the first major constructions estimated at 400 BC.

In 380, the city was attacked by the inhabitants of Teotihuacan, located 1,300 km away. Defeated on its own ground, the city fell under the yoke of its rival. But the expansion of Tikal continued until it became the most important city in the Mayan world by the 5th century.

Tikal was:

Like reefs breaking an ocean of greenery, the pyramids of Tikal are in a losing battle against nature.

The Tikal park stretches over approximately 57,600 ha. The forest where it is located is a region rich in biological diversity, both for wildlife and flora. Walking through the site of Tikal is even better than going to the zoo!

Among over 100 mammals populating the Peten region and the Maya forest, we find:

Flora is not to be outdone either: over 2,000 higher plants, including more than 200 species of trees.

To approach this stone giant, one must put it in context. Tikal was a center for political, economic, and military activities, consisting of a central urban area and a large residential area.

The main urban area spans 400 hectares and contains the principal monuments of the city: palaces, temples, ceremonial sites, elite residences, ball game courts...

All around the heart of the city expands a much larger secondary urban zone, with 1,200 ha of residential area and water reservoirs (>), featuring 25 secondary sites that were likely checkpoints for trade routes. This area was primarily engaged in agriculture, a vital task to nourish the densely populated center.

As little tourists, we only visit > the main urban area... And even within this area, we typically only see a very small portion of this downtown. It would take full days at Tikal to hope to cover the main urban area!

Why did this beautiful and great city fade away? The declines of great cities and civilizations, here as everywhere on earth, are always intriguing!

Many hypotheses attempt to explain the dramatic history of Tikal. According to the timeline recognized today, the city began to decline in the 9th century and was abandoned in the 10th century.

Current hypotheses explaining this decline:

Coincidence (or not?), this decline occurred during the 9th Baktun (the famous 395-year cycle of the Mayan calendar), a time marked by great change and upheaval for the Mayans...

A day is all it takes. A little day to meet this giant asleep in nature, overtaken by a relentless forest that gnaws at it with a fierce and eternal appetite.

Walking from one temple to another involves zigzagging between the roots of ancient trees, spotting a toucan along the way, stopping to let a hairy spider pass (right priority!), squashing a mosquito or two with a gesture cushioned by the heat... and being amazed at each clearing discovering a temple even bigger than the last!

Several constructions have particularly marked my memories...

How can one not be impressed by this place that bears its name so well? More than the grandeur of its constructions, it is the density of them that strikes at first glance. Surrounded by Temple I, Temple II, the Central Acropolis, and the Northern Acropolis, one feels enclosed on all sides from the center of the Grand Plaza!

Tip: Among the most popular spots in Tikal, the Grand Plaza attracts many tourists: it's best to arrive early to avoid peak hours.

This beautiful pyramid is surely the most photographed building in Tikal! Divided into 9 tiers with steep stairs, it reaches a height of 47 meters.

From the platform at its summit, one has a beautiful view of the Grand Plaza, and one can imagine being in the shoes of one of the city's leaders, addressing their people gathered at the foot of the pyramid...

Smaller than its older sibling in the Grand Plaza, Temple II measures > 38 meters in height. This magnificent pyramid gets its nickname from the decorations on its summit, representing a face.

If the pyramids of the Grand Plaza and the Lost World enchanted me... Temple IV crushed them all. Literally. Towering at nearly 65 meters, it is one of the tallest pre-Columbian structures in all the Americas. Archaeologists estimate that it took more than 190,000 m3 of stone to build this pyramid dating back to 740 AD.

Towering above the treetops, Temple IV proudly rises above the green ocean, offering a magnificent view of the forest and the temples of Tikal.

The view from the top of this pyramid may seem familiar to you (especially if you have a geeky side)... and for good reason: it is the one chosen by George Lucas in the Star Wars saga to hide the rebels from the Empire on the moon Yavin 4, in episode IV: A New Hope. You can see the famous Millennium Falcon landing on top of Temple IV, with a view of Temple I, II, and III.

Our guide doesn't give us a break: after spending beautiful hours at Tikal, we move on, heading to Yaxhá.

The name of this city Yaxhá means in the Mayan language >, a name it owes to the lagoon that borders it.

Much less touristic, this archaeological site located about 30 kilometers south of Tikal is yet the third largest site in the country, after El Mirador and Tikal. Discovered almost 60 years after Tikal (in 1904), this site became known fairly recently, with the filming of an American reality show > (season > in 2005).

It consists of over 500 structures, including nine pyramids. We enjoyed this visit away from the crowds, in the (relatively) cool evening air.

The monkeys accompanied us on our discovery of the site, jumping over our heads from branch to branch. I particularly remember our ascent to the beautiful Twin Pyramids and the Major and Minor Astronomical complexes, whose architectural structure was designed based on the position of the sun, especially for the solstices and equinoxes. A giant calendar.

One day is not enough to tour this immense site. Our guide recommended that serious archaeology enthusiasts set aside 3 to 4 days to see the main monuments of Tikal!

But most tourists only spend a day at Tikal, which still provides a good overview.

You can visit this site in three ways: on your own, with a guide contracted at the entrance of the site, or with a tour taken from a major city in Guatemala.

Tours cost around 100 GTQ (70 GTQ without a guide).

Our favorite agency in Guatemala! With them, we went to discover Chichicastenango (and experience a very special time with a Mayan spiritual guide), Lake Atitlán, the Acatenango volcano, and finally Tikal and Yaxhá.

We highly recommend: impeccable organization, a very professional team, and trustworthy guides (our guide for Tikal and Yaxhá was a bird-watching guide who could call the birds by mimicking their calls: simply magical!

We booked this tour for Tikal from Antigua, but took the tour from Flores.

UPDATE September 2017: unfortunately, we learned a few days ago that Carlos, the owner, passed away in a car accident last February, and the company has not been taken over.

Tikal in practice:

Travel:

From Flores: bus or tour, departing early in the morning (around 4:30 - 5:00); 1 hour travel time

From the Belize border: take a collectivo to Tikal (about 100 GTQ); 2 hour travel time

Opening hours of the site: from 6 AM to 5 PM (every day)

Rates: 150 GTQ (about $20); an additional 50 GTQ for the visit to Uaxactún

Note: tickets purchased after 3 PM are valid for the next day

There are two museums on the site of Tikal:

• Sylvains G. Morley Museum, located on the left when facing the entrance of the site, presenting a reconstruction of the tomb of a king of Tikal and a replica of the jade piece found with him (the original is at the National Museum in the capital).

• Stelae Museum, founded to protect the stelae threatened by nature.

Museums in practice:

Hours: from 8 AM to 4 PM every day (except national holidays)

Rates: 10 GTQ

From the top of a pyramid, it is possible to witness the sunrise over Tikal (but we did not do this).

Park entrance price: the ticket no longer costs 150 but 250 GTQ to enter before 6 AM.

Departure from Flores at 3 AM or stay at the hotel located at the entrance of the site.

Tours including the sunrise are often much more expensive and we have heard mixed reviews: some enchanted by this magical experience, others extremely disappointed, as at this time of day, there are often clouds and morning mist blocking the view.

The dry season, from October to May, is ideal for visiting Tikal.

Tip: Bring enough water with you, as well as sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses, and enough cash.

To visit Tikal and the region, the base point is Flores. We had a similar apprehension before arriving in the city of Cuzco: fear of finding ourselves in an ultra-touristy, crowded city... And we had the same pleasant surprise as in Cuzco: we loved it!

A city where one feels safe (which is no small feat in Guatemala, considered to be one of the most dangerous countries in the world) and where one feels good, simply put. Yes, there are many tourists and plenty of infrastructure for them, but the ambiance of this city still retains a certain charm, thanks to its colorful houses and also due to its unique location, amid Lake Petén.

This small island will never grow further... and in fact, it is likely to lose some of its area, as the waters gradually encroach on it (some streets are already submerged).

Flores will remain among our fondest memories of Guatemala for the connections we made there. We were hosted by locals on an island facing Flores, just a few minutes by boat: an extraordinarily generous welcome with beautiful warmth.

A bridge connects the island of Flores to the city of Santa Elena, where most buses connecting Flores to various tourist points in the country arrive.

Our favorite in Flores. We tried the burrito and the house specialty: white fish from the lake. Fine cuisine, with a beautiful interplay of spices and flavors. Special mention for the homemade garlic bread: a real treat! A family-friendly restaurant with quality products, smiling service, and a view of the lake... very good (and beautiful) memories.

Address: Calle la Union, Flores (on the northwest bank)

Vegetarian/vegan restaurant and especially a pizzeria: the best pizzas we've had in Guatemala (thin crust and well-measured ingredients, not a 4 kg layer of cheese!). A superb rooftop ambiance with a view of the lake: perfect for watching the sunset. Medium to high prices depending on the dishes.

Address: Calle la Union, Flores (on the northwest bank)

A restaurant with an ambiance as colorful as its walls! A varied menu (but not very local), good food, a very warm welcome (but very slow service!) and a beautiful view of the lake.

Address: Calle la Union Flores, Peten (on the northwest bank)

You've understood it, we are still enchanted by this stay in the Petén region of Guatemala. The warm colors of Flores have captivated us, the mysterious ambiance of Tikal has charmed us, and the view from the pyramids of Yaxhá has satisfied us!

In partnership with Guinness Travel.

To go further: The day I met a Mayan spiritual guide