The Thousand Islands, a Small Paradise Between Canada and the United States

It's decided: after the Laurentians, we are heading to Niagara Falls! While looking at the map on the GPS like drooling over a dessert menu, we decide to stop in a region with an evocative name: the Thousand Islands.

What a beautiful road! The landscape opens up, dense pine forests give way to open fields under a fluffy blue sky and serene lakes. By chance, we make a stop near a historical site: the Narrows Lock, on the Rideau Canal.

François is fixing (again) something in the car, taking care of our TARDIS, while Manoa and I pull out the picnic blanket to sit on the grass. We play, watch the leaves of the trees move with the wind, scrutinize the chipmunks hiding around us, and observe boats passing through the lock. All these people dutifully turning the valves one way and then the other, all to let about fifteen boats pass a day (according to the logbook), I find it has a quaint and beautiful charm. A care for nature, the desire to sustain life, the usefulness of a historic site, and the mission to guide boaters from one side to the other. A few words are exchanged: where are you from? Where are you going? Journeys along the water that leave the lockkeepers dreaming.

Our stay in the Thousand Islands begins here, in Gananoque. The name rolls off our tongues nicely, our eyes delight in gazing at the colorful wooden facades of the houses amidst parks, kiosks, bridges, and the river. Wandering towards the edge of the lake, our feet confirm our first feeling: we love Gananoque!

It's a feeling that's hard to convey... but here, we felt good. Happy, light, at peace. We even let slip those little magic words:

From Gananoque, I will cherish the beautiful moments spent by the lake, playing in the playground with its water jets, amidst the laughter of our soaked baby.

Discovering the Thousand Islands from the shore is beautiful. From a boat, it's even more beautiful! Our agenda for the day: a cruise with a stop on a very special island... Before leaving to explore them, I wondered: are there really a thousand islands? My intuition said no: it's probably an exaggeration to highlight the beauty of the area.

Result: I was quite wrong (like most of the people who follow me on Instagram!). No fewer than 1864 islands are counted. To nuance this figure, I peeked at their definition of an island: it must have at least 1 or 2 trees above water for 365 days of the year. Not very strict criteria...

Before boarding the boat, one detail catches our attention. The docks are underwater. Not by much, just a few centimeters. Residents have countered this problem by installing pallets on the docks and piers. We were later informed that this is unusual, and this is the second time they have experienced this phenomenon of rising waters (the first time was two years ago). It would be due to heavy rains coupled with a very harsh winter with a lot of snow that, when melting, caused the lakes and rivers to swell. Climate change isn't mentioned, but it lingered in our minds. I didn't expect to see such strong, present effects right at the beginning of our trip...

Here we are on the boat cruising through the Thousand Islands with the recorded commentary from an invisible guide detailing the blue scenery around us. The place, initially ignored by the general public, quickly became a spot reserved for the very wealthy, as evidenced by the houses and villas on the islands and islets around us.

The sun is shining, the sky is blue. The passengers are smiling. A vacation vibe definitely fills the air! With a big smile on my face, I watch Manoa wave at two passengers a few rows ahead and exchange smiles with them.

After half an hour of sailing, we arrive at the island, the highlight of this tour. As I mentioned earlier, it is special for multiple reasons. First, for its architecture: it is home to a real castle, a whim of a (very) wealthy couple: the Boldt family. After the death of his wife, Mr. Boldt never wanted to set foot on this heart-shaped island that his wife had given him. After suffering the ravages of time, it is now a tourist site where one can wander through redecorated rooms in the style of the era and in meticulously maintained gardens.

While the interior impresses with its opulence and size, it was the exterior that charmed me more. Trees providing gentle shade, refreshing fountains surrounded by statues, towers and turrets... This layout reminded us of the gardens in Sintra, Portugal, created to be romantic, even going so far as to construct faux ruins to enhance the ambiance of these living canvases.

The other major characteristic of this island: it is in the USA! Welcome to the States! How amusing to imagine that Manoa's (and François's, outside of airport transit zones) first steps in the USA were here, on this small piece of island in the middle of a lake shared by Canada and the United States. And finally, our first steps in the USA for all of us were in New York State!

Practical Information

We took this cruise with Rockport Cruises departing from Rockport.

Be mindful, if you choose the cruise with the stop at Boldt Castle, you are entering American territory. This means customs clearance, just like any other border. Hence, you need to possess a valid ESTA.

We had one for François and me, but not for Manoa. We just had to complete a form on-site.

The stop on the island lasts two hours. This is more than enough time to visit the castle and wander around. There is a snack bar on-site, mainly offering fast food without really any vegan options.

The boat ride after the island stop lasts about an hour.

We truly felt like we were on vacation in Gananoque and the Thousand Islands. A beautiful first impression of Ontario! It's a perfect region for road trips but also for hiking. If you have the time, look into it, there are plenty of parks and walks to make.

And so ends a new chapter of our trip. Next stop: Niagara!

In partnership with Rockport Cruises and the 1000 Islands Tourism Office.