Road Trip in Corsica: Sartenais Valinco, the Origins of Corsica

Traveling in Corsica means a road trip! This is the first part of our 10-day stay driving on the island of beauty... and it all starts with the origins...

Departing from Ajaccio, heading South. First stop: the Sartenais Valinco region, nicknamed >. On the agenda: an archaeological site, gastronomic discoveries, the most Corsican of Corsican villages, and the largest of the Genoese towers.

Let's go!

Our adventure in the Sartenais Valinco region begins before the start of our road trip. Accompanied by our guide, Xavier, we leave Ajaccio to explore the surroundings with other bloggers (Nathalie, Lucie, Souroure, and Violaine) who came to participate in the Travel Bloggers Fair. The plan includes history and gastronomy. A perfect day!

Head towards the Taravo region and the small village of Sollacaro, to discover the site of Filitosa, one of the most important archaeological sites in Corsica. A pleasant surprise for us: we never imagined visiting prehistoric ruins from the 7th millennium B.C. here! No wonder the Sartenais Valinco region is nicknamed >.

Located between Propriano and the port of Porto Pollo, this site is nestled in a natural setting that is well worth the detour. A lovely one-hour hike awaits, along a path winding between anthropomorphic menhirs, ancient gnarled trees casting refreshing shade, and wide stretches of meadow.

If these stones could talk, what stories would they tell? Staring at these motionless witnesses, I think of the moai of Easter Island. The similarities I find in the mysteries surrounding these sites make me smile.

According to some theories, these menhir statues could be phallic symbols erected to fertilize the land. For others, they represent >: warrior chiefs.

Soon a museum will complement the visit, also offering a workshop for reproducing prehistoric ceramics.

In practice: Address: Filitosa Prehistoric Station, 20140 Sollacaro, Southern Corsica. Hours: open from 9 AM to sunset, from April to the end of October. Duration: allow about 1 hour for the visit. Fee: 7 €. Website: Filitosa

To go further: Other archaeological sites in Corsica: Alignments of Palaggiu (near Sartène): 258 monoliths, including 3 menhir statues; alignments of I Stantari and Rinaghju, with the dolmen of Fontanaccia (on the Cauria plateau): the best-preserved dolmen in Corsica; examples of Bronze Age castles, such as Cucuruzzu and Capula (Lecce plateau); Museum of Levie and Sartène: explanations of several years of archaeological research.

History certainly makes you hungry! From Filitosa, we head towards the gastronomic stop of this tour: Villa Guidi.

I thought this was going to be a brief stop for a bite to eat. I couldn't have been more wrong. Villa Guidi is a place to savor, appreciate, enjoy, and indulge... A place to relish while taking your time!

Marianne and Christian warmly and proudly welcome us to their home. Here, the focus is on sharing and learning, but mostly on enjoying. Enjoying the view. Enjoying the history. Enjoying the atmosphere...

And it is indeed about sharing here. While Marianne shares the typical flavors of yesteryear, Christian takes us on journeys through his stories, discovering Corsican culture, its gastronomy, its customs, its historical anecdotes... For example, he teaches us to distinguish between the 3 types of Corsican charcuterie (we will talk about this in a future article).

We also learn that a Corsican home always has these four elements:

On today's menu, we enjoyed homemade dishes made with local products:

A special favorite for the guitar piece Christian played for us during dessert: a sweet pause in the moment... >, the lament of a guitar long abandoned. A Corsican song for a multi-sensory journey: we had taste, sight, smell, hearing... truly touching!

When you settle down on the terrace of this guesthouse, you know when you arrive... but you don't know when you will leave! Be careful, Christian is quite the chatterbox... and his enthusiasm is contagious! One thing is certain, the charm of the house, the beauty of its setting, and the warmth of our hosts have captured our hearts. One day, we will return to drop our bags in one of this grand house's guest rooms...

In practice: Fee: host table: €40 (full menu); room starting at €118 per night. More information in the > section at the end of the article.

After Filitosa, we still had two major discoveries that we were eager about in the Sartenais Valinco region: the Campomoro tower and the town of Sartène.

While I love long walks in nature, I also adore losing myself in the narrow, winding streets of medieval towns. Rediscovering the touch of ancient stones, the charm of old towns perched on heights... And in Sartène, I felt immediately at home.

Armed with an audio guide, we explore the main points of interest in the old town and get a glimpse of its history: from its medieval origins on the rocky spur of Pitraghiu to modern times, passing through the Genoese occupation starting from 1520, the great moments of the town are narrated along the streets.

Sartène in practice: Audio guide: offers a > tour Estimated duration: 1 hour 30 minutes Price: €5 Language: French, English, Italian Pick-up location: at the Sartène Tourist Office, court Sœur Amélie n° 14

Note: Interesting tool, but descriptions a bit long for my taste. A nice effort to make the tour lively, with sound animations... but needs adjustment! If you are interested in the history and do not want to miss the beautiful aspects of Sartène, take it... but feel free to listen to what interests you and to speed up some sections.

Advice: Prefer an outside parking lot to avoid driving through the narrow and crowded streets.

While Genoese towers are not rare along the Corsican coast, the Campomoro tower is undoubtedly the most massive and one of the most beautiful on the island. And it is also (and especially) the opportunity for a beautiful hike along the coast.

At the foot of the tower, 3 major trails are available, some leading to the Senetosa tower. There is something for everyone, from short loops of about one hour to beautiful hikes lasting 7 hours and 30 minutes.

Campomoro in practice: Genoese tower: open to the public from April to early October from 10 AM to 4:30 PM (entrance fee: €3.5) Access to hiking: free Parking: leave your car at the entrance to the village or in front of the beach, a 20-minute walk from the tower. Address: Campomoro Tower - Village of Campomoro, 20110 Belvédère Campomoro

Next to the charming village of Sartène and beautiful hikes around the Campomoro tower, the Sartenais Valinco region offers other interesting activities.

Next to Sartène and Campomoro, the other main towns, villages, and ports in the region are: Propriano, Almeto, and Porto Pollo.

For those looking for a moment of zen and relaxation, I invite you to visit the hot sulfur springs of Baracci: a (very) small family complex with a 38° sulfur pool, as well as other classic treatments (sauna, hammocks, jacuzzi).

Feeling active? Several sports activities are offered in the region, including: sea kayaking, diving, quad biking, horseback riding, canyoning, and via ferrata.

Because there are not just the trails of Campomoro, for those who wish to indulge in a day (or more) of hiking, there are 12 hiking trails in this area: for example, those in Taravo, Alta Rocca, or the Corsican Regional Natural Park (GR20 - for example, 5 days from Propriano to Porto Vecchio or Porticcio).

And on the road, in the vicinity of Sartène, make a stop at the famous Lion of Roccapina: with the right angle and a little imagination, you can admire this granite lion proudly sitting atop the mountains of the Sartenais Valinco territory.

A special love for the guesthouse >... and its owners, Marianne and Christian! This stone house from the early 19th century is built on a promontory between sea and mountains, overlooking the lower Taravo valley. Pila-Canale is a typical and friendly Corsican village of 300 inhabitants, >.

The extra perks: the panoramic view of 180°, from the peaks of Mont San Petru to the beaches of the Cupabia bay; personalized rooms based on travel themes; warm hospitality; a splendid setting; excellent dining experience.

An economical option for an affordable road trip in Corsica. Located at the entrance of Propriano coming from Ajaccio, this campground is interesting for its large shaded camping areas and, at this time of year (early May), very few people: quite pleasant! Basic but clean restrooms. Pool.

Address: Route d'Ajaccio, 20110 Propriano

Xavier, manager of Authentic'Tour Excursions, takes us aboard a beautiful van to discover >. For over 10 years, with passion and professionalism, Xavier has offered year-round discovery tours of Bonifacio, Bavela, Cap Corse, Corte, Calvi, and Piana.

Address: 36 Cours Lucien Bonaparte, 20000 Ajaccio

Website: Authentic'Tour

Starting our discovery of the island in >: what could be more logical?

Corsica is an island that reveals itself and can be rediscovered at every turn... After this second part of our road trip dedicated to the Sartenais Valinco region, I will tell you about other beautiful discoveries from this journey. To be continued!

And you, have you traveled in the Sartenais Valinco region? Any tips or memories to share?

In partnership with Sartenais Valinco.

To go further Road trip in Corsica: 10 days on the roads of the island of beauty Corsica, a sensational trip Details of the road trip: Road trip in Corsica: 2 days in Ajaccio Road trip in Corsica: Bonifacio, Lavezzi Islands & Porto-Vecchio Road trip in Corsica: Castagniccia, sea and mountain