Nara, a Day Between Temples and Deer

Nara... This name might not ring a bell, but you've certainly seen pictures of it, featuring its iconic deer with their gentle gaze. During our first three trips, we always made a stop in Nara, and I hope to convey to you in words and photos the reason behind this, beyond the places to visit. Nara is above all a moment of relaxation, a connection to nature while being in the city, and a very gentle light to wrap it all together.

I have already mentioned this city a bit in the article about the places to explore from Kyoto. Just about forty kilometers separate the two cities. This explains why the majority of visitors come from Kyoto to visit Nara for a day. During our first three trips to Japan, we went there each time. The first time without staying overnight, and the next two times we stayed longer to enjoy the sights and take a few excursions in the area. In fact, we set off for our road trip to Wakayama from here during our second trip (find here our itineraries in Japan).

Nara is not just another city... and this is true on more than one level. Historically, it was the ancient capital of Japan (from 710 AD to 784 AD). This explains why this city is so rich culturally, with many buildings, temples, and beautiful gardens classified as UNESCO World Heritage sites. Nara is considered one of the cradles of Japanese art, craftsmanship, literature, and culture.

There are many temples in Nara, and we did not visit them all. I will talk here about those we saw. Do not hesitate to ask for a tourist map of Nara at the Tourist Office located at the JR station square.

Todai-ji is undoubtedly the most famous and most visited temple of all. A large crowd gathers to visit its Daibutsu-den hall, one of the largest wooden structures in the world. Inside, we are greeted by the Great Bronze Buddha. Standing at 18 meters tall and weighing 250 tons, he has been overlooking the travelers who come to pay their respects for nearly 13 centuries. For the most adventurous (and agile), find the hollow pillar through which you must manage to squeeze to be granted good luck!

If Todai-ji is the most visited, Kofuku-ji and its five-story pagoda is often the first to be seen by visitors coming from the station.

During our last stay in Nara, we ventured further into the park to see the Kasuga Taisha shrine, nicknamed the lantern shrine. It is one of the most famous Shinto shrines in the country. I really enjoyed the shaded walk, the calm found after visiting Todai-ji, and the mysterious aura of all these lanterns, especially with the golden lights of the late day. Once on site, you can have a first glimpse of the place from the outside, but the interior visit, like at Todai-ji, requires an entrance fee.

In practice, access to the temples from Nara JR Station: Follow one of the main roads, Sanjo Dori, and head toward Nara Park.

• Kofuku-ji Temple: 17 minutes on foot from JR Station (and 5 minutes from the second station, Kintetsu-Nara)
• Todai-ji Temple: 16 minutes from Kofuku-ji, 30 minutes on foot from JR Station, or 7 minutes by bus from Kintetsu-Nara Station (bus stop Daibutsuden-Kasuga-taisha-mae)
• Kasuga Taisha: 20 minutes on foot from Todai-ji; 40 minutes on foot from JR Station

But the main tourist attraction is Nara Park. Spanning over 500 hectares, it is nicknamed Nature's Sanctuary or Deer Park. Because, like at Miyajima, here, the deer reign supreme! There are over 1,000 deer walking freely in the city, grazing throughout the day, only stopping to snatch a biscuit or two from surprised tourists with their quickness!

Because do not be fooled by the innocent looks of the deer: like the velociraptor in Jurassic Park, they work in teams to draw your attention one way while unexpectedly approaching you from another! In fact, one of the most common (and amusing) sights is to watch visitors buy cookies for these adorable fluffy creatures and then being ambushed. I remember this little Japanese girl, about 4-5 years old, standing on her tiptoes to protect her bag of cookies from a greedy deer while being surrounded by other deer coming up from behind her. Outnumbered, she started to run and literally climbed on her dad to find shelter, all while sacrificing her precious cookie treasure along the way.

Just as torii gates and bamboo have their own history and symbolism in Japan, deer also have a special significance for the Japanese. For Shinto practitioners, they are messengers of the gods. Just that! No wonder they are treated so well in both Nara and Miyajima.

And finally, Nara is not just a park, deer, temples, and gardens. Nara is also a city, with its shopping alleys and its old district: Naramachi. With its old wooden houses dating back to the 19th century lined along the alleys, it now offers plenty for the traveler looking for souvenirs, a good meal, or even a museum.

And between nature and city, don't miss Sarusawano-ike pond. Located just below Kofukuji Temple, it offers very beautiful reflections, particularly with the evening light. And with a bit of luck, you might see, in addition to birds, one or two turtles.

In practice, access to Naramachi from the main Nara station: 10 minutes on foot from Nara Station (JR)

Here's a practical summary along with our recommended addresses to prepare your trip to Nara.

Many expeditions are also possible from Nara. For example, to the mystical Mount Koya or Mount Yoshino, famous for its cherry blossoms.

Route from Kyoto: JR Rapid train to JR Nara Station (44 minutes)

We stayed in Nara in two different establishments. The first is located in the hills of the city, in a ryokan hotel adjacent to the park, and the second right in the center. Two very different experiences that we recommend based on your needs and wants.

Located next to Nara Park and about 1 km from Todai-ji and Kasuga-Taisha, this 3-star hotel invites you to relax away from crowded areas and experience the serenity of Nara. There is a bus stop almost in front of the hotel that connects the two Nara stations and the city center easily. The first time, we walked the distance... and it's a bit long (and quite uphill at the end!).

The hotel has spacious rooms with traditional beds and a private bathroom, as well as a public hot spring bath. There is also a restaurant, but we did not try it. Finally, the hotel has private parking for those who might be on a road trip in Japan like we were during this second trip.

The hotel on Booking and Agoda.

We spent two nights in this hotel during our third trip to Japan. It has the advantage of being located right in the center on the main street connecting Nara Station to the park. This hotel is more modern than the previous one, and you can feel that both in its architecture and decor. The rooms are comfortable. The hotel has a restaurant, but we did not try it.

The hotel on Booking and Agoda.

As someone who loves Kyoto for the tranquility that emanates from this city, with its deserted alleys found at every turn, its temples and other treasures surrounding it... I also love Nara for its gentleness, even if it expresses itself differently here.

Here, one feels zen. Seeing the deer waiting at traffic lights to cross with nonchalant Japanese people not surprised by their horned neighbors, I find that magical! Just like the large park that offers a breath of fresh air and nature while giving the impression of plunging into a mystical anime world...

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