Traveling Differently: Ireland by Boat Without a License

A country we dreamed of exploring and an adventure we wanted to renew: these are the ingredients for this boat trip without a license in Ireland! We are ready to cast off and glide along the Shannon River, eager to fill our eyes with soft, verdant landscapes, castles and ruined fortresses, and lively old pubs at any hour of the day... A beautiful immersion in Ireland, featuring nature, ancient cities, and small villages. Shall I take you along?

Exactly one year ago, we had our first experience of river navigation and a boat trip... or rather, on a small houseboat. It was on the Canal du Midi, a region of France that was entirely unknown to us. We loved that trip which combined adventure, relaxation, and the pleasure of self-sufficient life on the water.

And this time, we are reuniting with our little houseboat (or rather one of its sisters, virtually identical) in Ireland. Just days after returning from the mountains and our zen stay in Menuires (for the Yogiski Week, which I'll tell you more about), we are excited to extend this idea of returning to nature and tranquility while applying it in a new setting.

During this week on the Shannon River, we picked up our home on the water at a marina in Killinure Point, near the village of Glasson. We first decided to head upriver to the North, all the way to Lecarrow to visit the ruins of Rinn Duin Castle, then we made our way South to Athlone, Clonmacnoise, Shannonbridge, Ballinasloe, and Shannon Harbour... before heading back to our home port. A week well filled, rich in landscapes much more varied than I expected.

The Shannon River is the longest river in the British Isles and the most abundant in terms of its flow... So it's no surprise that a legend exists about it. However, while I love legends, I admit I hesitated to share this one because it's the kind of legend that I would like to see forgotten!

In short, picture a magical spring, walnuts blessed by woodland fairies, and greedy salmon eating the fallen nuts. Men were very fond of these fish, reputed to convey the world's knowledge through fairy magic. And when I say men, I haven't forgotten the capitalization: women were forbidden at the spring. But one day, an audacious woman, Lady Sinann, decided to ignore the prohibition and went to the fountain and... it was the end of everything. The flow of the spring violently increased, sweeping away Lady Sinann who drowned. This is how the magical spring disappeared, but the Shannon River (coming from Sinnan) was created... This story has a bit of an Adam and Eve vibe, don't you think?

In any case, this river holds a special importance for Ireland. Geographically, because it travels through the country, dividing it in two. And historically, as its ideal location served as a route for building villages, trading, invading, and warring... In short, a strategic point in the history of Ireland.

Our first objective at the start of this houseboat trip in Ireland: Rinn Duin, based on the advice of one of the sailors from our home port. And what great advice it was! We cast off and headed North, crossing Lough Ree, known to be choppy, but very calm during our passage.

Normally, a small dock near the ruins allows you to tie up your boat, but a storm brought the dock back onto solid ground! So we had to reach the nearest town, Lecarrow, and from there walk along a hilly road to the site. A lovely walk to the sound of birds singing and watching nature reborn as it emerged from winter.

Once we arrived at the entrance gate of Rinn Duin, the real adventure just begins! I didn't expect to walk among sheep and cows to admire the remains of this Anglo-Norman castle built in 1227 under Henry III. A rural walk where we had to pay equal attention to the ruins that emerged and where we stepped.

The walk starts along an ancient wall and then takes us along the river. The view from the bank is truly beautiful! It's only in the last third of the route that we see the main remains of the castle: it's worth the effort!

Route:

• By boat, from our base (Quigley's Marina), cross Lough Ree to Blackbrink Bay where a narrow canal connects Lecarrow Harbour to the lake.
• From Lecarrow: about 3 km. Don't hesitate to hitchhike (we did on the way back) even if there aren't many cars passing by; people are super friendly and will almost certainly stop. You can rent bikes from Lecarrow or directly with Locaboat at the time of your reservation.

Fee: free access to the site. The landowners allow open access to visitors. Their only request is to follow the route indicated by the signs and respect the rule of leaving no trace of your passage. Visit: Two loops are offered:

1. (marked green path) is limited to the main sites and is 3 km, about 1 hour

2. (marked blue path), adds a small detour to the tip of the peninsula to see an old mill and lasts 4.5 km, about 1 hour 15.

Tip: wear good shoes; avoid in rainy or muddy weather!

Athlone is the major city of the region. And its main tourist attraction is its castle. No romantic ruins or ghosts here, but a completely restored castle that reveals the history of the place to visitors. Some rooms are very educational and should particularly please children: costumes, a simulation game of the siege of the fortress...

And upon exiting the castle, after admiring the facade of St. Peter and Paul Church, and walking around the walls, you find yourself amidst small streets lined with colorful houses. One of them houses the oldest bar in town, also reputed to be the oldest bar in Ireland, even the world: Sean's Bar. Over 1,200 years old, it appears in the Guinness Book, and some of the coins found there during archaeological digs are now displayed in a museum in Dublin.

We went there during the day. The atmosphere must be totally different in the evening... A feeling reinforced by a small sign at the entrance indicating that children are welcome until 7 p.m. The walls are covered in history: old devices, radios, telephones, and typewriters, yellowed photos over time, newspaper articles from another century... And at the bar, you have the chance to taste one or another local beer before settling on a fine vintage.

And if you are in Athlone, don't hesitate to stroll along the river to the lock for a different view of the city, its bridge, cathedral, and fortifications.

Athlone in Practice The harbor: the night costs €12, plus an additional charge for electricity starting from €3, all must be paid at an automatic terminal. Note, you then need to go to the harbormaster with the electricity ticket to gain access. The toilets are free to use. The castle: €8 for adults, free audio guide available in English. The entrance ticket also gives you some discounts, including 25% at Sean's Bar for an Irish coffee, free admission to the Luan Gallery, and 10% off a visit to the Kilbeggan distillery. Note: to leave Athlone towards the south (Shannonbridge), you need to pass through a lock. The keeper is very nice and willing to help. Be aware, as you approach the lock when leaving the city, the current is strong. Lock fee: €1.50.

One of the most important tourist sites in the region, perhaps the country: Clonmacnoise. While it may now seem lost in the middle of nowhere, it was of paramount importance in the country's history. Located at the junction of the river and the ancient Celtic road, it marks almost exactly the border between three provinces. A central point indeed.

Even today, travelers and pilgrims flock here to feast their eyes, immerse themselves in history, or pay their respects at the grave of Clonmacnoise's founder, monk Kieran of Clonmacnoise, who became Saint Kieran or Ciarán, one of the twelve apostles of Ireland.

In Practice Located halfway between Athlone and Shannonbridge. A small free-access harbor in front of the site allows you to tie up to visit. Entrance fee: €8 for adults Positive points: a cafeteria and toilets, an introductory video at the start of the museum part shown in both English and French.

What a pleasure it is to navigate on the Shannon and watch the landscape slowly evolve. We also enjoyed the shortcuts we took, whether on the Suck River, reaching Ballinasloe, or the canal leading to Lecarrow.

We were enchanted by this nature and the vast landscapes around us. Beside the wide path offered by the Shannon, the Suck River presented us at times with tight bends marked on either side, making us feel like a cricket ball on its path. Or playing Mario Kart in river version... To each their own references!

Navigating on the river is also a wonderful opportunity to admire the local wildlife. The white sheep and black-headed ones grazed peacefully with their babies in this spring season; we also saw cows and Nordic-looking horses with long hair.

But the stars of the place are the birds! Many mute and tuberculated swans swim peacefully along the bank or build their nests. We also admired grey herons, ducks, geese, meadow pipits, kingfishers, great cormorants, black-headed gulls, grey wagtails, and arctic terns... In short, plenty to delight ornithologists... and François who, since our trip in Antarctica, has started to enjoy birdwatching and photography!

Of course, these will just be restaurant addresses that we'll share with you... since we slept aboard our floating home!

Killinure Chalets Located 500 m from the marina, Killinure is a place to rent chalets, but also a restaurant and bar where nearly all the locals gather. Sailors and families mingle in a relaxed atmosphere. If you don't make a reservation, it's best not to arrive too late to ensure you have a table. The staff is very attentive and adapted menu items for us to be vegan. Closed on Tuesdays.

Kin Khao Thai There are plenty of restaurants in Athlone. But when we saw that one of the best restaurants in town, and even among the top 100 in the country, was Thai, we immediately decided to go for it! However, we arrived in the evening without making a reservation and it was full. So remember to call ahead, or as a backup plan, like us, get your order to take away. We enjoyed delicious spring rolls and pad thai in the comfort of our boat's cabin.

Sean's Bar It's not every day that you get the chance to step into the oldest bar in Ireland! The bartender and François recommend trying a local beer: O'Hara's. In the evening, there are often musical events.

The town of Ballinasloe itself didn't leave much of an impression on us. The main street is lined with a few colorful houses with traditional signs. Having only stayed long enough for a stroll, we don't have any specific places to share... But we will always remember the vegan cookies found in a local shop: delicious! On the package, it reads >... I love it!

The most reputed restaurant in the village is the one housed in the old fort... but it was closed during our visit (for a change of ownership, reopening a week later). The two pubs remain: Kileens and Lukers. It was in the latter, located right across from the marina and the bridge, that we went for a drink. A very pleasant family-friendly and relaxed atmosphere.

Note: access to the Shannonbridge harbor is free, only electricity is chargeable. The toilets are free to access, and the showers operate with a token worth €2 for 12 minutes, which can be purchased at the bar Lukers.

Locaboat has a base at Killinure Point, well located, with the possibility to explore the north or south of the country along the Shannon River. The choice was tough: north or south? But it ultimately gives us a great opportunity to return and explore the path we neglected!

As for the rental process with Locaboat, I already talked a lot about it during our first trip with the houseboat. So I'll refer you to the article about our route on the Canal du Midi and the article on practical information.

Locaboat offers several services around boat rental, all very practical, like transfers from Dublin Airport or groceries done (based on a checklist) and loaded onto the houseboat before your arrival. We could also ask the shuttle driver, since we were the only ones in the small bus, to stop at a little store on the way to buy some additional items.

Regarding navigation in Ireland itself, it's quite easy. The navigation map is very clear, and green and red markers outline the navigable path to avoid shallow areas. Throughout our journey, we only navigated through two locks (one in Athlone and one towards Ballinasloe). Each time, it cost us €1.50, and the person in charge would spontaneously come to help us moor the boat. Likewise at the ports, help often came spontaneously from other sailors. And if the practical information (access to amenities, shower, toilet, electricity, etc.) isn't always well indicated, the regulars were there to kindly answer us.

We really enjoyed this experience. It is another way to discover Ireland, both by the mode of transport used and the regions visited, as most trips in Ireland are road trips that hug the coast.

It is always difficult to compare to previous trips... but the human spirit struggles not to do so! This journey reminded us of the one we loved a few years ago in Northern Ireland. This has only strengthened our desire to explore this island from end to end.

And compared to our first experience on the houseboat on the Canal du Midi, we felt more comfortable with how the boat worked, but also with our surroundings. Here, we navigate in nature with vast landscapes. A completely different setting from a canal dug by humans. And still the pleasure of a boat vacation, an alternative way to travel combining discovery, relaxation, and a hint of adventure...