Caye Caulker: in the warm waters of Belize

Belize, a country I knew almost nothing about. Just a few images of paradise beaches, the famous Blue Hole, a gaping abyss in the ocean... Belize had everything to surprise us!

Reflecting on two weeks on the islands of Caye Caulker and San Pedro (Ambergris Caye) with highlights, surprises... and disappointments.

An interim stop on our journey through Latin America >, between Guatemala and Mexico, Belize appeared on our path without us having imagined it.

Belize? I don't know it... But why not?

Time playing against us, given our urgent desire to explore Mexico (a honeymoon do-over to take!) and the date of our unexpected return to Europe approaching (to participate in the Travel Bloggers Fair in Ajaccio), we decided to spend little time in this country smaller than Belgium. And since we couldn't explore it in-depth... we might as well see nothing at all!

... Or almost: we decided to settle on the island of Caye Caulker in the Caribbean Sea.

From the moment we crossed the border, we faced our first shock: the language! Here, they speak (first) English. Belize is definitely a unique country in Central America.

Why speak English in a Latino environment? For historical reasons: this territory, which was once called British Honduras, was colonized in the 17th century by Europeans, first by pirates and corsairs, then the British Crown from 1862 to 1964, finally gaining independence in 1981.

One of Belize's greatest riches: its cultural diversity, with most Belizeans being of mixed heritage: Maya, European, African/Creole, and Afro-Indigenous (or Garifuna: these Caribbean people are the only black people on the American continent who have never experienced slavery).

The official language is English: that's what everyone initially uses, especially with tourists. However, in some regions of the country (especially in the west and north), Spanish takes precedence over English. Some communities still speak Maya languages, others a dialect of English Creole (similar to that of the English-speaking Caribbean islands), and the Garifuna community speaks... Garifuna!

In short, a delightful mix of languages!

We were surprised to notice that while many Belizeans speak Spanish, most hesitate to respond in that language or even admit to speaking it! To our simple question (after months of traveling in Latin America, Spanish had become a much more natural language for us to speak than English), most of our interlocutors would sidestep the question, dancing around before finally responding... Until we put them at ease with a little joke in Spanish, and then the conversation was underway. Moreover, we observed a new wave of friendliness from our interlocutor, as if we had become closer because of my speaking Spanish! Strange...

Social/legal/national pressure to speak the official language? We won't get a clear answer to explain these curious reactions.

Whether it's unique to these islands or to the country as a whole, we couldn't verify... But one thing is certain: Caye Caulker has its own distinct rhythm!

With a beachside rasta vibe, the whole island seems to contribute to a tribute to slowness. "Go slow," the motto of Caye Caulker, is the first sign.

Another clue? The street signs urging passersby to take it slow. On the sandy paths, a few golf carts, the only motorized form of transport, cross paths with cyclists and pedestrians walking at a leisurely pace.

And to be sure you're in tempo, follow the rhythm of the reggae music that plays on loop in the beachside café.

But rhythm is not everything: it's just one piece of the puzzle that represents the unique atmosphere of this island.

While strolling around the island, taking a circular glance: on one side, one-story houses at most, and on the other, a few palm trees lining the sea. The vibrant colors of the houses matched with the Jamaican hats worn by street vendors set the tone. Everything seems to tell you here, "Take it easy."

The image we've kept from this stay: the street vendor, with his deep and warm Jamaican voice, chanting to a slow rhythm:

"Hot cooocooonut! Hot cooocooonut"

While pushing his little cart of coconuts.

A bit of theory: What is a caye? The low elevation of a small sandy island on the surface of a coral reef, often located near a coast in tropical environments (in the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans). They can be found around the Great Barrier Reef and... the Belize Barrier Reef in the Caribbean Sea.

This coral reef system in Belize is one of the most important in the world, after those of Australia and New Caledonia.

When we talk about cayes, we refer to the ones like: Caulker, Ambergris, Hicks, Glover, Lighthouse, Mauger, South Water, Saint George, and Turneffe.

Why choose Caye Caulker among all the others? Mainly for its easy access and its reputation for being budget-friendly.

Verdict?

The island has a backpacker vibe > with a strong tourist presence and a dominance of young tourists from North America. The budget is clearly lower on this island than on others (like Ambergris - which I will discuss later), but it still remains more expensive than the cost of living on the mainland.

Caye Caulker has a very small area, with an unoccupied and completely wild part. With its 8 kilometers in length, you can quickly tour it, but the good vibe compensates for the monotony of the scenery.

Beautiful dreamy landscapes: sea, palm trees, sand, and coconuts!

You can eat well... and of course, lots of fish and fruits.

The vibrant atmosphere of the island, the humor of its inhabitants... and the Caribbean rhythm.

Narrow and small beaches, with the most beautiful and best-located ones being constantly overrun by tourists.

A period rich in seaweed during our stay on the island (apparently the worst they had seen in a long time - what luck!), which slightly tarnished the landscape and gave the island a sweet aroma...

Prices are higher than on the mainland.

Few places to connect to the internet properly (and even fewer with accessible outlets) - but then again, that's the price for geeks, addicts... and bloggers who want to take a moment to work a bit!

Lots of tourists... with everything that entails.

Many activities include alcohol galore... which can quickly spiral out of control with some tourists!

Many street vendors who can be quite noisy and tenacious (to say the least!).

High cost of offered activities (diving, snorkeling... - especially the Blue Hole I will discuss later -).

Difficult interactions with some island residents.

Generally, the contact we had with Belizeans on the island was less easygoing and less warm than with Latin Americans from neighboring countries. It's hard to put into words and even harder to explain a personal experience... but the warmth of the Salvadorans, Guatemalans, and Hondurans was missed, and when we arrived in Mexico, the kindness of the Mexicans gave us a breath of fresh air!

The main attraction in Caye Caulker, as with all the cays, is its marine life! Snorkeling or diving, numerous centers thrive on the island offering tours to discover the underwater reserves.

Two tours stand out: Hol Chan and Blue Hole.

The tour around the island takes you to admire the local flora and fauna by boat, with around 4 scheduled snorkeling stops (including in the Hol Chan reserve), featuring: the coral reef, manatees, stingrays, sea turtles, nurse sharks, and a parade of colorful fish! We absolutely loved this tour!

More images from this expedition in the Hol Chan reserve in our aquatic video: >.

Practical tips:

• Do not apply sunscreen just before going into the water (especially in an area like this, which is a nature reserve).
• Bring something to cover yourself in the water to avoid sunburn.
• Bring water, a hat, sunglasses, a waterproof camera, and maybe a beach towel... and that's it! Limited space on the boat means that everything you brought could be wet by arrival.
• A snack (fresh fruits) is provided on board after the last swim.

The Blue Hole is a dream: the image of this bottomless hole has circled the globe! This large circle measures over 300 meters in diameter and more than 120 meters in depth.

However, opinions on this expedition vary. Some say there's nothing to see: "just blue water." Others, on the contrary, are very enthusiastic, like the great Jacques-Yves Cousteau, and rank this spot among the top 10 diving locations in the world, classified by UNESCO among the World Heritage sites.

Unfortunately, we decided not to go there for budgetary reasons: for two people, it would have cost us around 500 USD: quite a hefty budget! Plus, it's quite a distance to travel by boat to get there, with two other scheduled diving or snorkeling stops on the way, all arranged on a one-day tour.

I discovered that the Great Blue Hole is actually an underwater cenote (to understand what a cenote is and see the diving video, it's right here) formed during the last ice age. Huge stalactites can be found there, remnants of the limestone cave that this hole used to be.

There are several dive and snorkeling agencies on the island, all offering similar tours and prices. So, how to choose?

Of course, you can go with the old methods and select based on recommendations and reviews... But you can also find interesting criteria to base your choice. Such as the environment and animal respect.

We only found one agency that proudly displayed its commitment, "the purpose," this is reeffriendlytours (see good addresses), also known as "the purpose." Here, no feeding animals to attract them and definitely no touching or holding them (which other agencies promote to attract tourists). Here, we respect the animal and maintain safety distances: no question of scaring or invading it, it's at home, and we are merely visitors meeting it, if it allows. And these waters are so rich in fauna and flora that you need not worry: you will always see plenty of animals!

The staff extends environmental attention down to the last detail: this is the only boat we took that even refrained from tossing fruit scraps overboard: it's a nature reserve, we leave no trace - or as little as possible.

But for those who don't like to put their head underwater, other activities are available: sea kayaking, windsurfing, kite surfing, fishing, sailing outings...

We went on a sunset boat tour... and not just any kind of boat: a reggae sailboat! With Raggamuffin agency, the Bob Marley atmosphere is guaranteed before you even step aboard. While the scenery met my expectations (gorgeous colors of an orange sun sinking into the ocean followed by a starry sky like I rarely saw), the atmosphere was less peaceful than I expected. For me, watching the sunset signifies calm and contemplation... but for the other passengers on the sailboat, it was rather a party!

And for those who prefer to keep both feet in the sand, there's a popular spot on the island of Caye Caulker: the Split point. You gather there to sunbathe, have a drink, and splash about. While the tourist guides sell it as a hotspot... the reality is quite different: word-of-mouth must have worked well, as this place is often crowded, especially at sunset.

We have a great fondness for this agency that we warmly recommend for its philosophy and the kindness and professionalism of its staff.

Address: Playa Asuncion Street, in the southern center of the village, on one of the main streets parallel to the beach.

Website: Reef friendly Tours - Captain Amado

For a sea outing set to reggae music! Several types of excursions are possible: day trips, multi-day trips, or just to watch the sunset and the arrival of the stars.

Address: Hicaco Avenue (Front Street), seaside, just past downtown heading north.

Website: Raggamuffin Tours

A hotel that catches the eye for its colors and retains travelers for the friendliness of its staff. Very good contact, both with the managers and the receptionists or cleaning staff (one that we had to go fetch at her house in the middle of the night because we locked the keys inside!). Clean and spacious rooms equipped with a fridge, with a fan and air conditioning (which can be a delight given the humid heat of the island).

A favorite for the private terraces with hammocks! A true pleasure to read (and work) while swinging with a view of the sea.

Address: Hicaco Avenue (Front Street), towards the north at the exit from the village center.

The hotel on Booking and on Agoda.

Don't be fooled by this pretentious name: it's a charming little hotel of moderate standing, pleasant with a shaded garden at the entrance and tempting hammocks... While the owner is a little cold at first contact, it improves over the days and encounters. Very good value for money.

The hotel is not listed on Booking or Agoda.

There are no shortage of restaurants and bars in Caye Caulker: the center of the island is full of them! We tested quite a few places, both more central and more isolated, and we don't have a specific address that stands out: the quality-price ratio is pretty much equivalent everywhere.

Still, we have a fondness for the café run by a couple (Canadian man and Central American woman): its cold coffees are delicious (and inventive), the service is warm, and you always leave with one or another pastry gifted. Here, there's no WiFi, but a view of the sea: that compensates well!

Address: Front Street, right in the center, on the street heading north from the dock.

Website: Ice & Beans

A small Lebanese eatery, familial and tranquil, inexpensive and delicious. The manager is a bit distant at first, but very smiley later on (especially when you bond with her adorable kids).

Address: On the corner of Front & Hattie Street, just before the Split.

It's part of the island's vibe: having a glass of fresh juice in one of the little shacks by the sea, or eating barbecued meat from a street vendor (preferably at lunchtime, as they're not always there in the evening).

And a special shout-out for the pupusas (Salvadoran specialty) sold in the evening on the street behind the basketball court in the village center: delicious, economical, and charming service!

To see a bit of the surroundings, we left our nest for a day and a night: heading to Ambergris Caye and its main town: San Pedro.

Barely arriving, we already feel a huge contrast. It's there you truly realize the tranquility that reigns in Caye Caulker... and how quickly you get used to it!

San Pedro is a noisy, overcrowded city (always in comparison to Caye Caulker), where real cars can circulate (and even create traffic jams), with real streets, sidewalks... In short, civilization!

However, the area to explore is wider (sometimes too wide when the sun is at its zenith and the heat overwhelms us!). There is bound to be a greater variety of... everything: restaurants, shops, bars, hotels... But the majority of hotels are catered to a fairly affluent clientele.

We chose the only accommodation that advertised itself as a budget option. Normally, we tend to avoid establishments that claim to be "affordable" or "budget-friendly," but this time we didn't really have a choice, given the rates offered by the other establishments.

Many beaches belong to large hotel complexes, distorting the wild aspect in favor of chic and luxurious allure. A different atmosphere... Nevertheless, we generally found the beaches to be more beautiful (likely they were better maintained and cleaned of their seaweed than in Caye Caulker, given the island's standing).

Having stayed very little time on the island, we don't have many good addresses to share with you, aside from our accommodation and the Salvadoran restaurant where we enjoyed finding the Latino charm of El Salvador and the delicious pupusas... but I can no longer recall the address of that restaurant (in the town center).

The backpacker's hotel on the island! Verdict? We've never had such a small room: the size of two single mattresses and the space to slide between the two beds, nothing more. Our room faced the balcony with a view of the pool, and it was often invaded by the sweet smell wafting from the smokers indulging in their vice outside our window (what bad luck!). Another charming detail: the wall in our room didn't reach the ceiling, leaving a ventilation gap... ideal for allowing mosquitoes free access once night fell! And the last negative point: the noise, with the bar organizing drinking games and karaoke once night fell.

To provide a counterpoint: the mattress was excellent (it was even surprising!). This hotel, which doesn't overlook the sea, has an agreement with a more luxurious hotel allowing its residents to access the private beach of the other hotel and enjoy its lounge chairs for free.

In short, it lives up to its slogan: "the place to be."

Address: Seagrape Drive (15-20 minutes' walk from downtown heading south on the island)

Website: Pedro's Hotel

How to get there: ferry or water taxi from Belize City Price: depending on the company, around 15 USD one way and 25 USD round trip Duration: 45 minutes

From Caye Caulker to San Pedro (and vice versa) Price: same price as for Belize City: (depending on the company) 15 USD one way and 25 USD round trip Duration: 45 minutes

From Chetumal to Caye Caulker (or San Pedro) There are also boats from Chetumal to Caye Caulker (in northern Belize, at the Mexican border), to be booked, as this route is not guaranteed every day! Price: around 55 USD one way Duration: 2 hours 15 minutes

Better to know: Prices are sometimes shown in Belize dollars (BZD, not to be confused with DBZ for the geeks), sometimes in US dollars, and sometimes just with the symbol $. It's up to you to guess! But it's best to inquire before ordering, as it's hit or miss: 1 USD = 2 BZD.

A fleeting and mixed experience thus, in these Caribbean islands of Belize... But above all, the desire to discover the cultural, historical, and natural richness of this country by exploring the mainland during a future trip to Central America.

In partnership with Pedro's hotels, Raggamuffin Tours and Reef friendly.