- 1. Recap of Cambodia: Must-See and Do
- 2. Must-See and Do in Cambodia: City by City
- 3. Phnom Penh
- 4. Must-See and Do
- 5. To Avoid
- 6. From Phnom Penh
- 7. Kompong Thom
- 8. Must-See and Do
- 9. Sambor Prei Kuk Temple:
- 10. Phnom Santuk Temple
- 11. Visit a Silk Worm Farm: The Santuk Silk Farm
- 12. See the Bats Take Flight
- 13. Preah Khan
- 14. To Avoid
- 15. Recommended Places
- 16. From Kompong Thom
- 17. Sra'Em
- 18. Must-See and Do
- 19. Recommended Places
- 20. From Sra'Em
- 21. Koh Ker
- 22. Recommended Places
- 23. From Koh Ker
- 24. Siem Reap
- 25. Must-See and Do
- 26. To Avoid
- 27. Recommended Places
- 28. From Siem Reap
- 29. Kratie
- 30. Must-See and Do
- 31. To Avoid
- 32. From Kratie
- 33. Sen Monorom
- 34. Must-See and Do
- 35. Recommended Places
- 36. From Sen Monorom
- 37. A Vast Country ...
- 38. Rattanakiri
- 39. Battambang and the Southern Side of Tonle Sap
- 40. The Coast: Sihanoukville, Kampot, and Kep
- 41. Recap of Cambodia: A Trip That Leaves You Wanting More!
Recap of Cambodia: Must-See and Do
From our first steps in Cambodia (and in Asia), I offer you a brief summary of the sites to see and activities to do (but also those to avoid) based on my own experience.
Must-See and Do in Cambodia: City by City
The interest in discovering a country by oneself is also about getting lost and venturing beyond the most touristic spots. However, they still remain good bases to gather information and explore a region in greater depth.
Phnom Penh
Must-See and Do
For more details, I refer you to the article What to see in Phnom Penh.
In summary, the main sites and attractions of the city are:
- the National Museum
- the temples: Wat Phnom and Wat Ounalom
- the Independence Monument
- the museums and sites related to the Khmer Rouge: Tuol Sleng, Choeung Ek, Killing Fields.
- attend collective aerobics classes: on Sisowath Quay and at the Olympic Stadium (at the top of the stands), Cambodians follow upbeat music, sometimes accompanied by a TV screen showing a fitness session video.
- the markets: the Central Market (Psar Thmei) with its immense dome, the Russian Market, Psar O Russei, and the night market.
- walk around and get lost in this vast capital with very different districts (tourist area, expats, Sisowath Quay...)
- Koh Dach or the ...
To Avoid
The Royal Palace and its Silver Pagoda. While it is not a place to avoid at all costs, it is not a site you should prioritize on your list of visits in the capital.
From Phnom Penh
The traffic in the country is somewhat star-like, with Phnom Penh being the center: all roads lead to Phnom Penh!
Thus, we have distilled our visits in the capital during each of our returns, so that there is always an interest in returning.
Kompong Thom
Situated between Phnom Penh and Angkor, about midway between these two key points in the country, Kompong Thom is relatively less frequented by tourists and serves more as a stopover. Yet, several sites are worth staying 1 or 2 days in this city.
Must-See and Do
Sambor Prei Kuk Temple:
This group of temples and ruins is quite remote, not often visited by tourists and thus very peaceful.
A little tip (applicable to all jungle temples): bring insect repellent and long clothing if you go in the afternoon or late in the day: the sun sets quickly and mosquitoes awaken quickly to attack!
In practice: Price: $3 (+ 2,000 riel for parking) Distance: about 30km from Kompong Thom, $10 by moto-dop (round trip), $15 by tuk-tuk.
Phnom Santuk Temple
To reach this popular pilgrimage site perched on the highest of the sacred mountains in the region (207m), you need to climb the 809 steps that lead to the temples. It is possible to avoid the steps via a paved road, but the expedition would lose all its charm, especially since this path in the beautiful staircase offers a great view of the surrounding forest and the monkeys that guard it.
In practice: Price: $2 Distance: about 20km from Kompong Thom, $6 by moto-dop (round trip), $15 by tuk-tuk for a combined trip with the silk farm.
Visit a Silk Worm Farm: The Santuk Silk Farm
Curious to learn more about the weaving process, from the worm to the silk scarf, we visited a silk farm near Kompong Thom (Santuk).
Moreover, Cambodian silk is renowned: while Khmer worms may not be as productive as their Chinese relatives, they still produce silk of excellent quality, dubbed ... .
An interesting experience that allowed us to discuss with Budd Gibbons, a retired American who married a Cambodian, who created his farm, distancing himself from NGOs after setbacks which he speaks quite openly about. Both the technical and human sides were presented to us by this passionate individual. The visit ends beautifully with a Khmer buffet cooked by his wife: a delight!
In practice: Price: the visit is free. You can buy a scarf starting from $15 and eat on-site for $5. Distance: located almost opposite the road leading to the Phnom Santuk temples.
In practice, expedition from Kompong Thom (about 20km) that can combine:
- the village of Kakaoh, known for its stone carvers who create Buddha statues and others at a feverish pace
- the silk farm
- Sambor Prei Kuk
See the Bats Take Flight
Strolling along the river during the last rays of sunlight is very pleasant: a promenade is well laid out and frequented by children playing in the street, men engaging in dacau (a form of badminton played with feet), and women jogging in groups. It is also an opportunity to observe the bats taking flight at dusk: hundreds of bats emerge from their enormous trees (near the old residence of the French governor, 500m from the bridge).
Preah Khan
Quite far from Kompong Thom (near the village of Ta Seng), this site is difficult to access (due to the poor condition of the roads) and is also one of the most beautiful we have seen. To get there, there are no buses, no organized tours (or very rare and hard to find): drivers offer a private ride in tuk-tuks or cars, with the latter being the most realistic and comfortable option!
The site is even harder to access during the rainy season, so the best time to visit is from December to April.
In practice: Price: $5 Distance: from Kompong Thom: 2 hours by car.
To Avoid
Avoid embarking on long-distance tuk-tuk excursions: with the dust and road conditions, it can be quite exhausting! And to think we found a driver offering a 5-day tuk-tuk tour in the jungle: quite an adventure (that we are glad to have avoided!).
Recommended Places
We stayed at the Arunras Hotel: a hotspot in the tourist life of this city. Various options and rates are offered ($8 without air conditioning, $15 with). A little tip: avoid the 4th floor: as there is a karaoke on the upper floor.
For dining, the hotel offers a cafeteria and a restaurant, its staff moving between the two. Night markets and street stalls also offer local food at a very good price-quality ratio.
From Kompong Thom
Located between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh, expect 3 hours to connect to one of these cities with a good minibus and double that time with a bad bus! We tried both, and the difference is just astonishing!
Between Phnom Penh and Kompong Thom lies the Prasat Kuha Nokor temple (about 70 km from Kompong Thom).
From Kompong Thom, you can also reach Sra'Em more easily than from Siem Reap. You can do this by bus or with a private car that will take you on a tour of the lost temples in the jungle, which are difficult to reach otherwise.
Sra'Em
Must-See and Do
Sra'Em has no interest in itself, except for its location at the foot of the mountain housing the Preah Vihear temple.
Preah Vihear: I have already talked about this temple in the article dedicated to the distant temples; it is one of my favorites! The view from the heights of this temple perched on the hill is worth it (especially in this flat and wooded country: an unobstructed aerial view gives a completely different vibe).
Recommended Places
We stayed in Sra'Em at the Sok San Guesthouse.
The hotel is a bit off-center but offers a restaurant. Only the manager speaks English, which sometimes requires a lot of patience to get things done at the reception or restaurant, but we always manage!
From Sra'Em
This city is mainly accessed via two routes: from Kompong Thom (1 small day by bus), passing through the regional capital (Tbeng Meanchey also called Sra'Em: hello confusion!) or from Siem Reap.
Koh Ker
Situated in the middle of nowhere in Northwest Cambodia, between the towns of Kulen and Srayong, the temple city of Koh Ker is worth a detour. This site is simply gigantic: 42 temples spread over a 9km by 4km area. To learn more, read the article on the distant temples.
A little advice: do not stray from the paths. Signs indicating demining of the area are found in front of each temple, but you never know...
In practice: Price: $10 Distance: about 100 kilometers separates Koh Ker from Sra'Em as from Siem Reap. From Sra'Em, we managed to visit both sites on the same day, leaving very early for the ascent to Preah Vihear and finishing at Koh Ker for the temple tour at the end of the day.
Recommended Places
We stayed at the hotel located at the edge of the woods and temples: Mom Moroko Koh Ker Guesthouse. The comfort is rudimentary: access to electricity and running water is only available in the evening when the generator is turned on. However, we appreciated the calm of this lodge away from the cities: only the animals could be heard.
The hotel offers a family-style restaurant, serving only during meal times and sometimes only dressed in a towel. We had a very good evening watching a Khmer comedy about evil spirits with the children and locals: guaranteed laughter.
From Koh Ker
From Siem Reap, no public transport services Koh Ker, but it is possible to rent a car for a day ($80), find shared taxis to Srayong, or contract a tour with an agency.
Siem Reap is primarily known for the temples of Angkor, a national pride that is also found on the Cambodian flag. To maximize your visit, here are a few tips:
- three days seems to be a minimum to see them
- it's better to wake up early to avoid both crowds and heat (though this advice has its limits)
- create your own itinerary, trying as much as possible not to follow conventional routes (start a stage further in the distance or do it in reverse...)
- do not limit yourself to the closest temples or so-called 'must-sees' (it is not Angkor Wat that touched me the most)
- dress appropriately (in long clothes) in order to avoid being denied access to certain parts of the temples
- buy your ticket the day before the first day, starting at 5 PM to be ready to start as early as possible the next day and enjoy a bonus sunset
- bargain firmly with tuk-tuk drivers
- schedule a rest day between these visits (the 3-day ticket is valid for a week) so as not to make a rush and allow for a little sleep in!
Siem Reap
Must-See and Do
For more information regarding the country's ... I direct you to the article Cambodia: what to do in Siem Reap outside of Angkor.
In summary, the main sites and attractions of Siem Reap and its surroundings are numerous: the National Museum of Angkor, sites commemorating the atrocities linked to the Khmer Rouge, Khmer cooking classes, the Prek Toal bird sanctuary, Apsara performances or acrobatic circus, markets, Khmer Ceramic Center... and I particularly recommend renting a bike and exploring the surroundings off the beaten path.
To Avoid
- The floating villages have become so touristy that just entering the village is charged!
- Pub Street: to discover only if your steps lead you there
- The helicopter tour over the Angkor temples: Aside from being expensive ($90 for the short 20-minute tour, $150 for the 40-minute tour), the companies are not open to negotiations and the view is not as spectacular as that from aerial footage in reports. You spend half the flight just seeing green, with the temples quickly emerging from the forest. Additionally, there is often fog around Angkor Wat (most likely due to the surrounding water basin). And the cherry on top: the staff of the company we took are either incompetent or dishonest (or both!). They tried to charge us (after the flight) for the long tour, claiming we flew for 40 minutes while we were in the air for only 10 minutes for the short tour...
Recommended Places
For our recommended accommodation and restaurants, refer to the article on Siem Reap.
From Siem Reap
- An international airport serves Siem Reap for tourists eager to discover Angkor.
- Many buses connect Siem Reap to Phnom Penh (announced time: 6 hours, actual time: 10-12 hours!). For a faster journey, it is better to prioritize minivans (5-6 hours). Siem Reap is also accessible by road from Thailand.
Kratie
Must-See and Do
- Koh Trong, the island on the Mekong. We did not go there but received good feedback on this little expedition.
- Vat Roka Kandal: temple from the early 19th century located 2km from Kratie.
- Bike rides along the Mekong.
To Avoid
Even though the tour to see the Mekong dolphins is the region's attraction, I advise you to resist the temptation. The dolphins are chased by motorboats driven by locals eager to please tourists, camera ready to shoot: they turn the engine on and off every 2 seconds to stay as close to the dolphins as possible, competing between boats on who gets best positioned... Very disappointing (didn't see much) and quite uncomfortable on our ethical standpoint.
In practice: Price: $9/person for 2, $7 for 3 or more people. Distance: the town known for this kind of tour is Kampi (15 km from Kratie): $10 by tuk-tuk ($5 by moto-dop).
From Kratie
Located 250km from Phnom Penh, expect 7-8 hours by bus (and 4-5 hours by minivan).
Sen Monorom
Must-See and Do
Capital of Mondulkiri province, this city is a large dusty town. I learned with amusement that it is somewhat abnormally nicknamed '> ... Justification: there are two lakes and the region is hilly!
François having become very weak due to his illness, we hardly saw anything other than the city's clinic.
The region is famous for its villages of >, waterfalls, and elephants. Jungle trekking with a guide costs $30 (with a possibility to stay overnight in a remote village of >) and the elephant excursions cost $25.
The Elephant Valley Project presents an alternative to traditional rides: tourists here do not ride these elephants, rescued from the exploitation of tourism. The only downside to this beautiful initiative: locals do not view the work of this NGO favorably. While they understand the project's underlying values, they lament the lack of interaction with locals and the impossibility of forming a partnership, thus sidelining Cambodians from the initiative.
Recommended Places
We were accommodated at the Long Vibol Guesthouse, a bit out of the way but very pleasant.
With these little wooden bungalows grouped around a green and peaceful garden, this true haven of peace offers a feeling of relaxation and freshness compared to these dusty and bustling towns. The owner, a former renowned guide, still organizes tours (even though he no longer leads them) and is a very good source of information about the region.
The service is impeccable, the manager and his staff are dedicated, friendly, and were very helpful when François had to be taken to the clinic.
The restaurant at the hotel is a bit pricey (average prices) but very good.
From Sen Monorom
From Kratie, only local minibuses connect to Sen Monorom. The journey felt very long: 5 hours, many stops, chaotic road.
Buses connect Phnom Penh and Sen Monorom. We took a minibus with numbered seats for the return (what luxury: > 14 people, not counting the children): departures every morning, lasting 5-6 hours.
A Vast Country ...
A month was not enough for us to see this vast country! We prioritized quality over quantity, the pleasure of seeing over the necessity to explore, thus leaving certain regions of the country for a future trip.
Other major points of interest in Cambodia include:
Rattanakiri
In the Northwest part, we did not reach Rattanakiri province, known for its lush jungle and the beauty of its natural sites, where several minorities live.
Battambang and the Southern Side of Tonle Sap
We only saw the northern part of Tonle Sap (traveling between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap via Kompong Thom); the southern bank is said to be more beautiful. We also missed Battambang, which is said to be a lovely city.
The Coast: Sihanoukville, Kampot, and Kep
We did not go to the south nor to the coast: we wanted to avoid Sihanoukville following rather negative feedback (both about the beauty and safety of the places), but desired to see Kampot and Kep.
Recap of Cambodia: A Trip That Leaves You Wanting More!
To the question about Cambodia... >>, it is impossible for me to give a direct answer! Clearly, a month was not enough to see what we wanted (François' illness did not help, of course, but even without that we had to make choices and thus renounce ...). I would say two more weeks would have been very welcome!
When planning your trip to Cambodia, the choice of the season is also crucial, as both landscape and ambiance will not be the same during the rainy season or the dry season (heat and weather but also tourist crowds, vegetation, mosquitoes...). For more technical information, I invite you to read the practical information sheet on Cambodia.
Have you ever been to Cambodia? Any tips and experiences to share?
To go further:
- Cambodia: Practical Information
- The Lost Temples of Cambodia: There are Many in Angkor!
- Why Angkor Disappointed Me
- Cambodia: What to do in Siem Reap outside of Angkor?
- Cambodia, First Impressions: Contrasts and Paradoxes
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