- 1. Discovering Cambodia differently: heading to the temples
- 2. Sambor Prei Kuk: the silence after the bombs
- 3. In practice
- 4. Phnom Santuk: beware of the monkeys!
- 5. In practice
- 6. Preah Khan: the faces of the jungle
- 7. In practice
- 8. Prasat Preah Vihear: the soldiers on the mountain
- 9. In practice
- 10. Koh Ker: the Maya pyramid
- 11. In practice
- 12. Beng Mealea: the temple of lost children
- 13. In practice
- 14. 6 temples, 4 days: 1,000 heartthrobs!
Discovering Cambodia differently: heading to the temples
And yes, there is more than just Angkor in Cambodia, far from it! This country is full of forgotten temples, lost in the jungle, survivors of time, wars, and looting.
Not having seen them all, I'm sharing here my favorites and tips to explore the temples away from the crowds.
Any means is good to reach the hidden temples of Cambodia: bus, van, tuk-tuk, motorbike, bicycle... And to do it right, you need to combine them all! Here are the 6 sites I visited, grouped in the Northwest part of the country:
- Sambor Prei Kuk
- Phnom Santuk
- Preah Khan
- Preah Vihear
- Koh Ker
- Beng Mealea
Sambor Prei Kuk: the silence after the bombs
The site of Sambor Prei Kuk is the most impressive group of pre-Angkorian ruins (7th century), with more than a hundred brick temples.
Unfortunately, the ravages of time are not the only foes these constructions have faced: war and the Khmer Rouge (as well as the bombings by the American air force in the early 70s to liberate Cambodia from the Khmer Rouge) have taken many temples.
The refreshing shade of the forest allows you to visit the ruins without feeling overwhelmed by the heat and to dive into a strange and silent universe. Because the forest is strangely quiet... Our guide explains to us that there are very few animals now, following the bombings that took place in the region :>. This somewhat oppressive silence makes the ruins even more impressive.
The temples are all similar yet all different at the same time. While a common style unites them, they come in all shapes and sizes (or almost!): octagonal, hexagonal, and rectangular.
- The trees (again and again) and their impressive roots take possession of the stones, creeping between the bricks, like a river flowing between the rocks.
- The Lion Temple: an imposing structure always watched over by its two lion statues, standing guard.
In practice
Budget and travel Price: $3 + 2,000 riels for parking; Guide: $7 - more guides at the entrance than visitors throughout the site, we found a French-speaking guide very easily (though it took us a few minutes to understand him well). Travel: about 30km from Kompong Thom, 1 hour by tuk-tuk (a little less by motorbike) through dirt paths in the countryside for about $15.
Phnom Santuk: beware of the monkeys!
We completely change the atmosphere with the second site to see near the city of Kompong Thom. Upon arriving at the foot of the temples, you must first climb the 809 steps (the numbering of the steps along the ramp helps keep count!) and avoid the bands of hungry monkeys. Above all, do not bring out any food: it makes them aggressive!
The summit of this small mountain (207m) houses several temples, mixing eras and styles. One of the temples is still active, with monks in pretty orange robes adding a colorful and serene touch.
Each temple has its particularity, and this is what is enjoyable: you can stroll around the site and discover more secluded places with statues, bridges, temples... and monks napping anywhere!
- Just for the staircase this temple is worth it: one would feel like being in a fairy tale or a manga.
- Then seeing monkeys freely crossing the steps while we sweat profusely is quite nice: it makes you forget the effort and brings some life to this forest!
- The specialty of the area: the sleeping Buddhas.
In practice
Budget and travel Price: $2 Travel: about 20km from Kompong Thom. We combined this site with the silk worm farm (silk farm of Santuk) and the village of Kakaoh, known for its stone carvers who create statues of Buddha and others at a frantic pace. Expect a hefty half-day for the excursion (and $15 for a tuk-tuk), with the possibility of having a typical Khmer meal at the silk farm ($5).
Preah Khan: the faces of the jungle
The first site of our road trip to discover the temples in the jungle (departing from Kompong Thom - arriving in Siem Reap), Preah Khan is very difficult to access, which makes it a little-visited place despite its great interest.
This site is the largest group of temples built during the Angkor period (over 5 km²). Dating back to the 9th century, this structure is said to be the second city of the Angkor Empire.
Composed of three sites: the pyramid of elephants (Prasat Damrei), the temple of faces (Prasat Preah Stung or Muk Buon, reminiscent of the famous Bayon temple) and finally Preah Khan, surrounded by moats.
- The temple topped with faces is small, but very beautiful and completely collapsed everywhere, giving it a video game look like Tomb Raider.
- Preah Khan, the grand finale of the firework display, is gigantic, with the door in front of the moat bridge being just a first facade before a second door infiltrated by a gigantic tree with tentacular roots: I loved it! I must have taken a photo of it a good ten times.
In practice
Budget and travel Price: $5 Travel: from Kompong Thom: 2 hours by car (I can't imagine the trip by tuk-tuk, and to think we almost did it! The road is dusty and in very poor condition). No public transport serves the site or the nearest village (Ta Seng). Access to the area is even more difficult during the rainy season (best time to visit Preah Khan: from January to April).
Prasat Preah Vihear: the soldiers on the mountain
Long forbidden and neglected by tourists, this temple has been the subject of significant tensions and conflicts between Thailand and Cambodia: located right on the border, both countries claim it as national heritage. The withdrawal of troops was only decreed in July 2011.
The military presence on the site gives a unique character to the visit: there are soldiers everywhere at the entrance, and some also walk among the ruins, sometimes amusing themselves by closely following tourists for no apparent reason, then laughingly joining the monks. Finding yourself at the edge of the trenches is impressive, especially if you imagine the conflicts that raged here. The region is still mined: be careful not to wander just anywhere!
Perched at 625 meters, it offers a view of the Cambodian plains below. Dedicated to Shiva, this temple complex is built lengthwise, along the North-South axis (which is quite unique in configuration).
- Climbing up there is an adventure in itself: cars stay in the parking lot below, and only military 4x4s and motorbikes can navigate the steep slopes leading to the foot of the temples. The journey remains a memorable moment, full of laughter, incredulity, and fear of falling around the turns, or slipping during the climbs. A simple question crossed my mind while sitting on the back of the bike: > ...
- I particularly liked the doors and windows of this site, where the longitudinal progression allows us to discover the temples one after the other, like opening Russian nesting dolls without knowing when it will stop.
In practice
Budget and travel Price: Arrived before dawn and left when the first tourists arrived at the site, we did not pay an entrance fee for this temple. Travel: the nearest town is Sra Em (or Sre Am, Sra'aem), more easily accessible from Kampong Thom (but also possible from Siem Reap). From Kompong Thom to Sra Em, it took us a whole day by car, but stopping along the way to visit Preah Khan. At the bottom of the site, take a motorbike (about $5 round trip); some drivers are military personnel on leave who supplement their income this way. Note: The site is still closed to tourists from the Thai side.
Koh Ker: the Maya pyramid
Behind this dog-sounding name hides a vast complex of temples, long considered inaccessible and thus little touristy. 42 temples are scattered over an area of 9km by 4km.
Former capital of the Angkorian empire, each temple that makes up the city has its particularity: its color (red stones, blue stones...), its sculptures, its trees between the stones... Beautiful sculptures have been found here, including the immense Geruda, which is currently in the reception hall of the National Museum in Phnom Penh.
- The temple that leaves the most lasting impression is undoubtedly the pyramid of Prasat Thom (or Prasat Kompeng). With a little bit of a Central American vibe, this pyramid has 7 levels and measures 40m high by 55m wide.
- The towers of Prasat Bram completely trapped, wedged between the trees.
- The food: small tourist stalls are set up at the foot of the pyramid site, and one of them offers typical Khmer cuisine: one of our best meals in Cambodia!
In practice
Budget and travel Price: $10 Travel: we visited Koh Ker from Sra Em (less than 2 hours by car). The site is 2.5 hours from Siem Reap (130km). No public transport serves it, and the nearest town is Srayong, 10 km away.
Beng Mealea: the temple of lost children
Last but not least, Beng Mealea ranks high on my list of favorites. A true secret garden, lost paradise, fairy-tale world, or even animated by Miyazaki, this temple fascinates me. If you want to see a temple overtaken by vegetation, look no further: Beng Mealea is undoubtedly the best there is!
- Arriving early allows you to visit the site without any tourists, making the scenery even more wild and magical. However, it's impossible to avoid the escort of children-guides, who self-proclaim > and quickly impose > paths to follow. It's a stark contrast to see these peaceful temples traversing the ages, welcoming lush vegetation as if time had stopped here... only to be surrounded by children scampering everywhere, climbing vines, jumping from stone to stone. Of course, they know the ruins like the back of their hand, can point out the beautiful carvings, and even know a few words in English to describe the temple, but they can be a bit overwhelming... Not to mention the > repeated endlessly halfway through the visit!
- I loved almost everything about this temple, from the climbing necessary at times to continue the progression, to the finely crafted reliefs, to the walls overwhelmed by vines, and the play of morning light filtering through the tree foliage.
In practice
Budget and travel Price: $5 Travel: From Koh Ker, 1-2 hours by road, but there is nothing around: apparently no possibility to stay in the village of Svay Leu. From Siem Reap (70km, 1 hour by car), it is possible to combine an excursion with Koh Ker or Banteay Srei (a remote Angkor site I will mention later).
6 temples, 4 days: 1,000 heartthrobs!
In conclusion, we visited these temples primarily by tuk-tuk and car, allowing us to discover these 6 sites in 4 days.
The total budget: - for entries (without a guide): $25/person - for transport: from Kompong Thom to Siem Reap, we paid $230 (to see Preah Khan, Preah Vihear, Koh Ker, and Beng Mealea), adding the tuk-tuks in Kompong Thom and the motorbike-dop, for a total for transport: $40+$230 = $270/2 people ->$320/2 people
Of course, a car is a luxury and easy solution, and ultimately a huge time saver. Everyone must adjust according to their budget and time capital. The ideal is always to arrive early at the sites and/or visit them during tourist break times: it is always more impressive to feel the ambiance of a temple devoid of human life!
Cambodia is therefore much more than Angkor: hundreds of temples are scattered across this beautiful country and are waiting for the Indiana Jones or Lara Croft within you!
To continue reading: Why Angkor disappointed meCambodia, first impressions: contrasts and paradoxesCambodia summary: what to see and doCambodia: practical informationAll our articles on Asia can be found in the section >, like Cambodia